Leaving the hot, suntanned coast of Mexico, we arrive overnight to Guatemala, the home of chicken buses, breathtaking curves and the Chuchumatanes range of the ancient Maya. Todos Santos is a typical mountain village in Guatemala, where even men wear their traditional attire, dressed in colorful garments that reveal age, social status or heritage. The first sign of an ancient culture becoming extinct is when these traditional clothes start disappearing. First small boys start wearing baseball caps, then the older men switch from hand-woven headwear to cowboy-hats. In a few years, all the men start wearing western trousers and checkered shirts, and after some time only the oldest women can be seen wearing some kind of garments from their past. Tomorrow is All Saints Day, from where the settlement got its name, and the time for the famous festival. Every accommodation triples rates, so we opt for a family-stay which is still affordable. No camping around in this weather, the temperature is just above 0 Celsius, with rainclouds gathering fast.